Tickle me Red Crochet Pattern PDF

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  1. Tickle My Fancy Towel Toppers Crochet Pattern
  2. Big Fuzzy - Love Monster Free Crochet Pattern • Spin a Yarn Crochet
  3. Color Pooling 101: Argyle Print
  4. Primary Sidebar
  5. Big Fuzzy – Love Monster Free Crochet Pattern

I think this pattern would be good for using the Alternate Turning Chain technique to eliminate that gap you can get with a chain 3 and gives a flatter edge.

Tickle My Fancy Towel Toppers Crochet Pattern

You can find a video on YouTube for how to work it. The teal sounds beautiful! And thank you for your thoughts on the double crochet gaps! I will have to check out that YouTube video. Hi from Australia, I would love to make this pattern with my 8 ply pure alpaca wool, would this pattern work with a 5mm crochet hook and the 8ply wool? Dc in 5th chain from the hook???

Big Fuzzy - Love Monster Free Crochet Pattern • Spin a Yarn Crochet

The chain stitches count as stitches…please include those in your count and you should be all good!! She mean Skip 3 ch and 1 sc And start in 2 sc This is 5th st I think that is very late. I have started this top numerous times, I love the look of it. They are identical rectangles, however it is in the way that you seam them that it will be longer in the back.

I live in Utah so I love going camping, trail hiking and all the good things of living in the West. I made one of your ponchos and it is great for this kind of up and down temperatures. Now I am starting this shirt and another one! Thank you for all your great patterns and hard work to put it all together. Ah hi Sonda! Thanks so much for your kind words and for taking the time to write to me!

I just cannot understand what it means to sl st into the ch 2 space below for two rows. Is there a tutorial that shows this? Thanks for your help! Love the look of this top. Do you have something similar for knitters? Love the changing pattern across the rows.

Color Pooling 101: Argyle Print

There are ruana measurements online, or just use a fabric tape measure, and measure from where you want it to hit on the front of your body your hipbone maybe , and then up and over your shoulder and back down to the point you want it to hit on the backside. If you want it to be knee length, just measure from your knees in the front, up over your shoulder and back down to the back of your knees! I feel the itch to make several of these, in several colors! Also, you live in paradise! Thank you for sharing your talents. Hi Jessica I love this pattern, but, regretfully, as another person said, I am no longer skinny.

I have been thinking about resizing it to a 3x-4x sizing, by using my bust measurement and expanding the width of each rectangle. Do you think this can work? Do you know of any difficulties I could run into? I would welcome any input you would be willing to give. I was making a scarf with a pretty shell pattern and ombre yarn. I liked it so much I decided to turn it into a top.

I remembered seeing this pattern, so I made two scarves and sewed them together using your directions for this top. Thanks for sharing your talents! Your email address will not be published. Recipe Rating. Leave this field empty.

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Thank you! It also contains affiliate links for which I am paid a small commission if you make a purchase through the link on my site. I thank you kindly for supporting my blog in this way. You can know that while I accept sponsorship and use affiliate programs, I will not use or promote anything that I do not believe in personally. All patterns are created with an attempt to be as accurate as possible but are made and tested by humans and therefore may contain errors.

We respect your privacy and you may unsubscribe at any time. See privacy policy for more. I really love this color. Comments Email. I am an experienced knitter as well so I love the diversity of your patterns. I love your Topcho!!! Thanks so much for the pattern and of course, the antelope are amazing!!! Thanks Willow! And yes, it was so cool to have the antelope hanging out for sure! Beeeeeuuuutiful spring top! Knit version in the future??? Thanks Christine! Thanks for the suggestion. It would be possible Sheila, but this is the simplest way to do it. Thank you for always inspiring me with your talent!

I love your crochet patterns. Thank YOU for taking the time to let me know that you like them! I love this! Thanks for sharing your pattern and skills for free; very generous of you. Thanks, the rectangle idea is endless for different stitches to use. Love it. This is beautiful! Next on list to make after your broomstick lace top! Thanks for sharing! Starting this project today! Could you do this in a fingerling yarn? I just bought some and love this pattern thanks. Would love to see this in a knitted version. Thanks for sharing your patterns.

Thanks for the suggestion Patricia! Thank you in advance for your help. A crochet top I can set myself wearing! I love it. Thank you, ShayShay! Thanks so much for all of the kind words about the photos and the patterns!

Big Fuzzy – Love Monster Free Crochet Pattern

Made my night! So beautiful and so easy. Thank you for sharing. Hi Tamara! This is Row 1. For Row 2, pull out the last single crochet and chain one of Row 1 and turn. Chain 2, single crochet in the chain one of the row below, chain one, skip one, continue the moss stitch to the end. Theoretically, you should be able to tell if you are doing the argyle correctly on Row 3. After making several projects, I could actually tell by Row 3 if I was getting the argyle pattern, but when I first started doing the argyle pattern, it took a few more rows for me to recognize what was happening.

The Tell : Begin every row with a chain 2, and then continue the moss stitch. In Row 3, each color should be the same color as the one two rows below, only over one stitch. The new color should start one single crochet stitch after it did two rows below. In other words, each color should be shifting over one stitch because of that single crochet and chain one you pulled out of Row 1. Caveat : The new color is supposed to start one stitch later than it did two rows below, but 9 times out of 10, it started one stitch before for me.

This fact leads to Rule 4. Rule 4 : Each color should shift one stitch compared to that same color two rows below. If it starts one stitch before that color two rows below, make sure every color starts one stitch earlier. If it starts one stitch later, then make sure every color starts one color later. Rule 5 : You will have to adjust your tension to make sure Rule 4 keeps happening.

Because of the dyeing process, each color length in the sequence may vary slightly. To keep the argyle pattern working, you may have to frog rip out your project a little to crochet tighter or more loosely to make sure you keep getting the single crochets to start one stitch earlier or later. The perfect scarf will have the stitches shift one in every row for every color.

But no one is perfect, or should I say, no yarn is perfect.


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Caveat : Sometimes as I worked through rules 4 and 5, a correction on one color meant future colors would not shift, no matter how tightly or loosely I crocheted. You may have to break the rules for one color so the rest of the argyle pattern keeps working. Unless you have a pattern, or someone tells you what hook size they used in the exact same colorway, the only way to be sure is to make a swatch.

Create a little swatch in the moss stitch. Count how many single crochet and chain ones it takes to get through all the colors in a sequence. That is the starting chain. Row 3: Ch 1, sc in the first 11 sts. Sc in the next 5 sts, leaving remaining sts unworked. Ch 4, turn. Row 4: Sc in the back hump of the 2nd ch from hook, sc in remaining 2 ch. Sc2tog, working into the same st as the last sc of Row 3 and the next unworked st sts 5 and 6 of that side of the A. Row 6: Ch 1, 2 sc in the 1st st, sc in the next 3 sts. Sc2tog, working into the last st of the last sc2tog and the next unworked st sts 6 and 7 of that side of the A.

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Sc in the remaining 4 unworked sts from Row 2, working back down to the bottom of that side of the A. Use one of the ends to sew the loose end of the crossbar to the other side. Row 4: Ch 2, dc in 1st st, hdc in next st, sc in next st, leaving remaining sts unworked. Row Ch 1, and working into the outside edge, work 2 sl st in the side of the dc from Row 11, and 1 sl st in the dc from Round Row 20 — Repeat Row 5. Turn, 3 sts Break yarn and use tail to sew Row 22 to last 3 sts of Row 3, finish off. Row 6: Ch 2, skip the sc made in Row 5, dc in the ch 1 sp made in Row 5. Hdc in the side of the last sc made in Row 4.

Sc in the unworked st from Row 3. Row 4: Ch 1, skip the first st, sl st in the next 5 sts. Leave remaining sts unworked, do not turn. Row 5: Ch 6, sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in remaining 4 ch, sl st in next unworked st of Row 3. Row 9: Ch 7, sc in the 2nd ch from hook, sc in remaining 5 ch, sc 3 in the sides of Rows 5 — 7 1 st in the edge of each row , FSC foundation single crochet 6. Row 4: Ch 9, sc in the 2nd ch from hook and remaining 7 ch. Sc in next unworked st of Row 2. Row 6: Ch 1, sc in each of the 7 sts, then sc in remaining 6 sts of Row 2.

Break yarn and finish off. Row 7: Rejoin yarn with a sl st to the 8th last st of Row 3. Row 5: Ch 1, 2 sc in the first st, sc in the next st, sl st in the last st. Row 6: Ch 1, skip the sl st and the first sc, sc in the next st, 2 sc in the last st.


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  • Row Ch 1, skip the sl st, 2 sc in the next st, sc in the next st, sl st in the last st. Row 4: Ch 1, skip the 1st st, sl st in the next st. Ch 1, sc in the next st, 2 sc in the next st, leaving remaining sts unworked. Row 7: Ch 1, 2 sc in the first st, sc in the next st, sl st in the last st. Row Ch 10, sc in 2nd ch from hook and each remaining ch, sc in sl st and each sc, FSC foundation single crochet 2. Row 29 — Repeat Rows 13 — Break yarn and use end to stitch Rows 32 and 1 together. Finish off. Row 15 — Repeat Row 2. Turn 3 sts Break yarn and sew Row 17 to the middle of Row 3, finish off.

    Row Ch 1, and working into the sides or ends of Rows 17 and 16, on the outside of the curve, sl st, then ch 1 and sc 3. Row 20 — Ch 1, sc in each st. Use one tail to sew Row 17 to the middle of Row 3.